Okay, so we all knew it was coming eventually, what with hemisphere differences and all. Here we go anyways: I am writing this from a sun-soaked beach in Napier, North Island. It is very hot, there is sunshine and we recently took a drive along a palm-lined avenue reminiescent of the Sunset Strip. It is possible ice-cream will become involved in the near future. Their is a lido and sun deck to the right and a lifeguard station to the left - although, the lifeguards do appear to be fishing en masse on the beach...mind you, no-one is actually swimming in the sea due to the prevalence of sharks in this area, so they probably don't have to much to do anyway.
The last three days have been bereft of internet signal, so, apologies.
We drove on towards Abel Tasman, which meant driving through Nelson again. We were both excited about this - in the last months or so of constant transit, returning to a place we had visited before was a novelty! We did our grocery shop and then onwards again! We arrived in Marahau, the tiny town at the edge of the Abel Tasman National Park and booked our kayaks for the day after. Then, we enjoyed the rest of the day by wandering up and down the sweeping, intensely golden beach and looking at the rock pools housing tiny crabs. They have shells here like England has pebbles, in every pastel hue you can imagine and probably some more that haven't been named yet.
We had to be up early the next day to check out weather conditions and decide if we still wanted to go out on the waves. Luckily, the sun dawned bright, the sky clear and the sea calm. After a safety briefing and practice session that lasted 2 hours, we were released in our kayak, onto the coastline trail of Abel Tasman.
Kayaking is hard work. Attired in neoprene splash-skirts and lifejackets, knees crooked under the rim of the fibreglass craft, we paddled the hard way, straight out into the bay across to Fisherman's Island. The water was so clear you could see right down to the wavy patterned sand beneath us. As it got deeper, the surface turned an inky green and bit rougher. We slogged on, the land appearing to get no nearer at all! Eventually we reached the island and were rewarded with sights of a large sea bird (a Black Crested Shag for those in the know) drying its wings in the sun. We zoomed onwards to Adele Island in the hopes of seeing some seals but alas, it was not to happen, they head headed off round the side and due to westerly winds we had been advised against going to the west coast of the islands. We paddled back towards the mainland coast, stopping on a golden beach for lunch. We sat on a sun-bleached tree trunk and nibbled our sandwiches and fruit, then paddled in the clear aqua water for a bit. Thousands of tiny silver fish were darting around the shallows and clusters of shells opened and closed under the surface in the wave motion.
We paddled on, keeping close to the beautiful coastline and exploring caves and looking at the wildlife. Colourful rocks under the water reared up and had to be constantly watched out for so we didn't beach ourselves or damage the kayak. We stopped at another beach and had a bit of a sunbathe and an exploration of the shoreline by foot. As it started to approach 3, we decided to start back as we had to return the kayak by 4. We paddled swiftly, starting to get really tired arms, but we made it back and cannily avoided having to drag the thing up the beach by riding a tiny inlet of water round to the tractor that came to collect returning kayaks.
We went to the Marahau campsite and had five minute showers for a dollar. Once no longer sandy or salty, we made ourselves some dinner and had a long conversation with a random local who was touring the campsite asking about people's experiences of NZ for a website called 'rankers'.
The next day was to be our last in South Island for the time being. It was another spectacularly lovely day and we set off early in the morning, reaching Nelson again before 10. We booked a ferry and made it to Picton in plenty of time, despite revisiting the most heinously steep and windy roads through the Queen Charlotte Sounds and two seperate landslides. We even got stuck behind an old bus trying to navigate the twists and turns. At one point, it was going so slowly we actually came to a halt. Nevertheless, we got to the ferry and boarded without issue.
This time round, we went with 'Bluebridge' ferries - a cheaper ticket, but a much smaller ship, with the emphasis on getting to the North Island, not sightseeing, which was a shame, we hadn't realised the difference. We got a good seat on the deck though and watched the Marlbourough Sounds recede and the North Island open up to us again.
We were hoping to catch the fireworks in Wellington and once arrived we managed to find parking, get bags together for enjoying the evening and head out to find food. We settled with a Subway as the food courts close after 5 and only the posh restaurants seemed to be open. Sadly, after we finished our sandwiches, we discovered that the 6th was only the postponement date for the fireworks and they had actually aired the night before. Oh well.
We drove on for a fair way, looking for a place to stop for the night as there is no such place anywhere near Wellington, as we discovered last time. Luckily, following the East Coast highway (Highway '2') turns out to have lots of picnic spots, so we spent a nervous night at one of those - nervous due to some sort of cow/goose/dog/donkey creature outside the car making the most awful noises you have ever heard.
This morning, we bizarrely woke up even earlier than usual (about 7) and cruised off down the highway towards Napier. This has got to be the most boring and uninteresting drive that has presented itself to us since being in New Zealand, or even, since I passed my test. Just a long, flat highway, surrounded by variously flat green fields and rolling green hills. Every so often, there was a vineyard.
Finally, we arrived in Napier. Now, this was of interest because in our original travel plan, it was high on the list to serve as our base for working. It turns out that Napier is indeed very, very nice. A weird cross between Paris, America and Art Deco Land, we traversed the streets of pavement cafes and palm lined avenues. We have stolled the Marine Parade along a strecth of pleasant (if shark-infested) coastland. We are now laying out in the sun for a bit. Alex had a moment of extreme activity in which he fired off about 50 emails to potential employers. Between us, we have now accumulated quite the list of contacts in the great job search. Hopefully, one will bear fruit. (Haha. Fruit-picking jobs...bear fruit...).
I'm sorry for spelling oddities or anything - the sun is so bright I can't see the screen! I know, I know, what stress!
Saturday, 7 November 2009
Tuesday, 3 November 2009
Relax
We left Christchurch in a blaze of morning sunshine...very sleepy after waiting up for the F1 the night before. Well, I tried, I actually just fell into an unwakable coma just before the race started and only woke up again at 9.30 the next morning...Alex managed to stay awake however, but missed the end of the race due to rubbish streaming site. Doh.
We trundled onwards towards Hanmer Springs, feeling that a soak in hot baths would re-energise our flagging energies. We arrived at Hanmer, a pretty ALpine-themed resort with spa and springs and after sorting out the boring stuff in the library (application forms and so on) we went into the spa. This was gorgeous! Apart from a few random sulphur pools they had tucked away in a corner (there is just no contianing that smell. Eurgh).
We sat in the sunshine, under the blue sky in 41 degree water, overlooking pine trees and the odd mountain fronted by palm trees. Very bizarre to be on a sunlounger in a bikini/shorts in November and actually feeling too hot!
We padded around between the various pools of alternate temperatures, avoiding the paths strewn with cold sprinklers - a cruel necessity, as they were in place to deter all the honey bees from landing on the ground and getting squished under bare feet. The minerals in the pools make your skin feel very smooth and soft and you can even choose which minerals you want by going to different pools!
We spent a considerable amount of time in the pools, but eventually we were forced to leave by rumbling stomachs. We had a snack and got underway with the driving again, leaving Hanmer bethind and heading towards Kaikoura.
We found a lookout point to park in for the night. This got bizarrely rowdy around 8, when all the drunken patrons of the races up the road (this week is the start of race season) turned up on their way home. At last, once we had finally seen them off we settled in for the night.
This morning, we managed to drive off in the wrong direction (my skill, I apparently have inherited my dad's directional ability. E.g. nada.) Once going in the right direction again, we got to Kaikoura. This was a lovely little seaside town, I rather liked it. We stopped and had fish and chips at a wooden cafe and then tried to think of ways to see the whales and dolphins Kaikoura is famous for without spending money on a boat cruise. (Well, I say Kaikoura is famous for swiming mammals - in actual fact 'Kai' = 'food' and 'Koura' = 'Crayfish' in Maori and that is what the place is famous for. Alex and I are freaked out by crayfish, which are angry looking giant lobsters.)
We managed to find a parking spot right on the beach and unbelievably, there were two dolphins playing in the waves about 20m away from the shoreline! We sat and watched them for ages, even managing to see them do four acrobatic flips! It was brilliant, although of course the moment Alex got the camera ready to capture their flips they stubbornly stayed beneath the water. Weird, as in my experience, dolphins are usually show-offs.
We then went on to a seal colony. This was so different from the seals we have seen before, from far away at the tops of cliffs or from the road. Here, you could walk onto the rocks among the seals and get within 10m of them! We admittedly defied the guidelines and went a little closer, although not close enough to be mauled by a giant fur seal. We got some cool pictures as these seals were definately posers and couldn't get enough of the camera shutter clicking. We skipped around the rock pools and followed rare sea birds in order to try and get a shot or two of them. They were not so cooperative however.
From the seals, we moved on to Blenhiem. The countryside changed into gently rolling, although still very large, hills carpeted in lush greeness.Then, suddenly, the landscape was so flat you could see for miles and miles without break! It was really odd to go from elevated to flat so suddenly. The flatlands were covered in strict parallels of vineyards. We had entered the Marlbourough region.
We whizzed through Blenhiem, as the only thing to do there is taste wines and this was going to prove either expensive or ultimately pointless as neither of us are massively fond of wine and I was driving anyways!
Onwards then, towards Abel Tasman! We have stopped for the night up one of the large mountainous bits on the edge of the Marlbourough Sounds, which are beautiful. We watched the sun set over the nearby town of Havelock from our vantage point and watched in amusement as the giant campervans that have been cropping up ever more often as the season turns from Spring to Summer attempt to turn around in the small space.
We had an interesting supper, as we are running very low on food and need to stock up tomorrow (it involved apples and baked beans. Together.) Then we have eaten lots of chocolate. Time for bed!
We trundled onwards towards Hanmer Springs, feeling that a soak in hot baths would re-energise our flagging energies. We arrived at Hanmer, a pretty ALpine-themed resort with spa and springs and after sorting out the boring stuff in the library (application forms and so on) we went into the spa. This was gorgeous! Apart from a few random sulphur pools they had tucked away in a corner (there is just no contianing that smell. Eurgh).
We sat in the sunshine, under the blue sky in 41 degree water, overlooking pine trees and the odd mountain fronted by palm trees. Very bizarre to be on a sunlounger in a bikini/shorts in November and actually feeling too hot!
We padded around between the various pools of alternate temperatures, avoiding the paths strewn with cold sprinklers - a cruel necessity, as they were in place to deter all the honey bees from landing on the ground and getting squished under bare feet. The minerals in the pools make your skin feel very smooth and soft and you can even choose which minerals you want by going to different pools!
We spent a considerable amount of time in the pools, but eventually we were forced to leave by rumbling stomachs. We had a snack and got underway with the driving again, leaving Hanmer bethind and heading towards Kaikoura.
We found a lookout point to park in for the night. This got bizarrely rowdy around 8, when all the drunken patrons of the races up the road (this week is the start of race season) turned up on their way home. At last, once we had finally seen them off we settled in for the night.
This morning, we managed to drive off in the wrong direction (my skill, I apparently have inherited my dad's directional ability. E.g. nada.) Once going in the right direction again, we got to Kaikoura. This was a lovely little seaside town, I rather liked it. We stopped and had fish and chips at a wooden cafe and then tried to think of ways to see the whales and dolphins Kaikoura is famous for without spending money on a boat cruise. (Well, I say Kaikoura is famous for swiming mammals - in actual fact 'Kai' = 'food' and 'Koura' = 'Crayfish' in Maori and that is what the place is famous for. Alex and I are freaked out by crayfish, which are angry looking giant lobsters.)
We managed to find a parking spot right on the beach and unbelievably, there were two dolphins playing in the waves about 20m away from the shoreline! We sat and watched them for ages, even managing to see them do four acrobatic flips! It was brilliant, although of course the moment Alex got the camera ready to capture their flips they stubbornly stayed beneath the water. Weird, as in my experience, dolphins are usually show-offs.
We then went on to a seal colony. This was so different from the seals we have seen before, from far away at the tops of cliffs or from the road. Here, you could walk onto the rocks among the seals and get within 10m of them! We admittedly defied the guidelines and went a little closer, although not close enough to be mauled by a giant fur seal. We got some cool pictures as these seals were definately posers and couldn't get enough of the camera shutter clicking. We skipped around the rock pools and followed rare sea birds in order to try and get a shot or two of them. They were not so cooperative however.
From the seals, we moved on to Blenhiem. The countryside changed into gently rolling, although still very large, hills carpeted in lush greeness.Then, suddenly, the landscape was so flat you could see for miles and miles without break! It was really odd to go from elevated to flat so suddenly. The flatlands were covered in strict parallels of vineyards. We had entered the Marlbourough region.
We whizzed through Blenhiem, as the only thing to do there is taste wines and this was going to prove either expensive or ultimately pointless as neither of us are massively fond of wine and I was driving anyways!
Onwards then, towards Abel Tasman! We have stopped for the night up one of the large mountainous bits on the edge of the Marlbourough Sounds, which are beautiful. We watched the sun set over the nearby town of Havelock from our vantage point and watched in amusement as the giant campervans that have been cropping up ever more often as the season turns from Spring to Summer attempt to turn around in the small space.
We had an interesting supper, as we are running very low on food and need to stock up tomorrow (it involved apples and baked beans. Together.) Then we have eaten lots of chocolate. Time for bed!
Sunday, 1 November 2009
Christchurch
Christchurch was founded by a group of Oxford scholars and the Archbishop of Canterbury. Thus, it will not surprise you to know that upon getting into the city this morning, I was heard to remark; 'It really reminds me of home!'
It is odd - different, markedly so, but also vaguely deja vu of England. There is a winding river (The Avon) with costumed punters poling through the waters, like Oxford. There are ducks and green gardens covering many acres of the central city, like Canterbury. There is also a tram and a gondala ride, as well as crazy new metal sculptures and installations, like NZ cities everywhere. It really is most bizarre.
We had walked for over an hour from our campsite to get into town without having to then deal with the hassle of parking and so on. Once we arrived we set to exploring. Within about ten minutes, we had completed a leisurely stroll around the main centre squares and streets - another angle in which Christchurch reminds me of Canterbury.
Anyways, having just decided to stop spending quite so much money the night before when we re-did our budget, we found ourselves walking into a vegetarian restaurant, for the sheer novelty of finding that natives do not actually hunt vegetarians down and shoot them (even if they would like to) but actually occasionally cater to their needs. The Lotus Heart was a bit heavy on the new world meditational stance and had a poster boy by the name of Sri Chinmoy, who was posing serenly in various pictures with princesses, presidents and pop stars. The food was very tasty however, even if they did get a little confused as to which menus were on offer that day. We both decided to try a kefir drink after reading an extensive list about its health-giving propeties. It involved fermented milk, orange juice, grape juice and cinnamon and despite sounding a little gross was actually yum, with a weird fizz and a milkshake-like orange froth as a topper. It reminded Alex of Lambrini, make of that what you will.
After the culinary delights of vegetarian India, we progressed into the city again. We went to the library to check out printing options (exciting, I know) and sat in the park for a bit watching the Paradise ducks in action. They really do make the most peculiar noise - like a wazzoo!
Then we traversed the loooong walk back to the campsite and have since luxuriated in hot showers, hot dinner and the aforementioned hot chocolate.
Tonight will be a late one - the last race of the F1 is on in Dubai. I believe it starts at 1am. Doh.
We have not decided yet what we are doing tomorrow. We have been researching temporary holiday work for the last few days and sorting out the paperwork. Soon, after all, we will have to relinquish Newt! *sob*
It is odd - different, markedly so, but also vaguely deja vu of England. There is a winding river (The Avon) with costumed punters poling through the waters, like Oxford. There are ducks and green gardens covering many acres of the central city, like Canterbury. There is also a tram and a gondala ride, as well as crazy new metal sculptures and installations, like NZ cities everywhere. It really is most bizarre.
We had walked for over an hour from our campsite to get into town without having to then deal with the hassle of parking and so on. Once we arrived we set to exploring. Within about ten minutes, we had completed a leisurely stroll around the main centre squares and streets - another angle in which Christchurch reminds me of Canterbury.
Anyways, having just decided to stop spending quite so much money the night before when we re-did our budget, we found ourselves walking into a vegetarian restaurant, for the sheer novelty of finding that natives do not actually hunt vegetarians down and shoot them (even if they would like to) but actually occasionally cater to their needs. The Lotus Heart was a bit heavy on the new world meditational stance and had a poster boy by the name of Sri Chinmoy, who was posing serenly in various pictures with princesses, presidents and pop stars. The food was very tasty however, even if they did get a little confused as to which menus were on offer that day. We both decided to try a kefir drink after reading an extensive list about its health-giving propeties. It involved fermented milk, orange juice, grape juice and cinnamon and despite sounding a little gross was actually yum, with a weird fizz and a milkshake-like orange froth as a topper. It reminded Alex of Lambrini, make of that what you will.
After the culinary delights of vegetarian India, we progressed into the city again. We went to the library to check out printing options (exciting, I know) and sat in the park for a bit watching the Paradise ducks in action. They really do make the most peculiar noise - like a wazzoo!
Then we traversed the loooong walk back to the campsite and have since luxuriated in hot showers, hot dinner and the aforementioned hot chocolate.
Tonight will be a late one - the last race of the F1 is on in Dubai. I believe it starts at 1am. Doh.
We have not decided yet what we are doing tomorrow. We have been researching temporary holiday work for the last few days and sorting out the paperwork. Soon, after all, we will have to relinquish Newt! *sob*
Saturday, 31 October 2009
Birdlife
We drove a smooth tarmac road that hugged the cliffside around the bay of Dunedin, right onto the Otago Peninsula. As a protected region, we had to go to the one campsite as free camping was a strict no-no. Here, we experience the most squishy grass known to mankind and little else really. We got an early night and made ready to set out in the morning.
Our plan was to visit the Royal Albatross colony on the headland and after climbing high into the hills, buffeted by wind, we made it to the colony centre. However, turns out that this time of year is prime egg laying time and as such no-one is allowed to even breathe near the albatross in case they spook and fly off, never to attempt reproducing again. Nevertheless, there were some taxidermed versions to look at as well as an instructive exhibition about the wildlife and a video that made me instantly guilty about having started to eat fish. In other words...Save the Albatross! Use simple fishing methods to avoid catching giant, 3m wingspan birds of the sea on your hooks! Albatross friendly fish!
We left the hills and meandered into Dunedin itself. We were not sure if we would like this city, after initially visiting it on the way into the Otago Peninsula in search of fuel, at 6.30pm, with the emergency light bleeping and the car making funny straining noises on hills. Fuel is aparently a rare commodity in Dunedin when you are actively searching for it, but we got some in the end, after coming across a disused fuel station, one in the process of being built and one that was just closed early!
Turns out however, that Dunedin is very pleasant. We wandered the streets and had a browse in the shops. I discovered a pajama store that is now my absolute favourite shop, called peteralexander. We also discovered a Cadbury's chocolate factory and decided to go on the tour.
This was an awesome decision. First up, we went through the groovy exhibition on the discovery of chocolate by the Aztecs (I love learning about Aztecs) and how Cadbury's came into being. While Alex waited for the tour to begin, scorning my need to read every board on display, I carried on regardless. This, it turned out, was the way to go!
Our guide 'Cocoa Joe' turned up in bright purple dungarees and fetching head cover. We had to don head covers as well and in a moment of pure comedic genius, Alex was made to wear a 'snou' or a beard cover! Hilarious, he looked like Santa Claus. Off we went into the factory, the air positively heavy with chocolate scents. We were each given a little plastic bag with a chocolate bar in it - to hold goodies as we went. This was excellent, we had not realised we got free stuff into the bargain.
In some weird cliche, everyone working at the chocolate factory was happy. Everyone! They all beamed at us as we passed, gave out free chocolate to fill our bags and had names like Bernie. It was awesome. Even better, 'Cocoa Joe' had a policy of ask a question, and give the reward correct answers with free chocolate. The moment I realised this, the stuff I'd been reading in the exhibition came into itself! I have many, many free chocolate bars now. All is good in the world. They are all weird crazy ones that have never been heard of in the UK - like 'pinky', 'moro', 'snowball' and 'funkynana'! They all involve much marshmallow though, so Alex is pretty much reaping the bounty of my question answering skills.
After Cadburys we went into Dunedin and had a coffee before going back to the car to start the drive onwards to Christchurch.
We arrived in Moeraki around about 5pm. Now, the boulders along the beach here are what initially decided New Zealand for me - they are the photograph on the cover of my travel guide. As such, I was eager to see them. They are a bit of a geological oddity, in that they are rounded boulders, quite large, randomly strewn about the otherwise unremarkable beach of Moeraki. Some are split open, like eggs, and reveal a honeycomb centre which is even caramel coloured for realism! Alex and I had a good bit of fun playing about on these, Alex jumping easily from one to the other while I flopped and floundered about through them.
Onto Christchurch. On the way, we passed Omarau, which promised a Blue/Fairy penguin colony. We decided to stop and have a looksie. Imagine our amusement when it turned out to be a full-on centre and conservation movement for penguins which we had seen earlier in a leaflet and wanted to go to, but clean forgotton about since. Not only this, but we managed to turn up at dusk, at the exact time that they recommend you arriving so you can get seats before the penguins come inland.
Here, we sat in a small grandstand overlooking the beach, the boulderstrewn cliff and the swathe of grass covered in hummocks and man-man penguin next boxes. As darkness fells and the yellow lights came on (penguins cannot see yellow) we spied a tiny little blue penguin making its way up the rocky ramp. We named it 'Jonesy' as such named individuals are apparently always on point position in war games and watched it scamper up in a very sneaky, ninj-like manner. Upon finally reaching the grass, it made an all out break for it, scurrying across the grass towards its nestbox at full throttle. I know this description is typical of penguins, but it is so true - he looked like he was wearing a full dinner jacket and smart shirt. Admittedly, in oh-so-fashionable indigo blue and satin sheeny white, but still. What makes it funny is that he was a mere 10 inches tall. As it got darker, more and more penguins arrived. They spend the day fishing alone, then form up into groups or 'rafts' about a kilometre out to sea. They then cruise in together, catch a wave and ride it onto the beach, standing up as it recedes and waddling, hopping and scrambling up the rocks. They make odd honking-shrieking-purring noises to each other and move across the open area before the grass in groups of 20 or 30, leaving behind a rear guard each time who waddle back to the waiting penguins in the rocks to, assumably, inform them it is okay to cross now! We saw fuzzy chicks and mates running out of their nests to welcome back there partners from the sea. It was really cool. It was also very, very cold. After freezing for an hour or so, we decided to leave. As we stood, one of the penguins noticed and appeared to make eye contact with ALex, even though they are not supposed to be able to see in the dark. It made straight for him in an unwavering line, practically leaping over the pebbles. After stopping and staring for a while, it moved on and ALex and I continued down the path. Here, there were three penguins clustered together. They were wandering about so we stopped to watch and they started towards us. Alex bent down and the penguins went crazy for him again! Running straight through the wire fence, one approached him and gently tapped his shoe! Whether this was because he was wearing blue and white converse or because, as I think, he has a weird affinity with birds and was quite possibly a bird in a past life and thus attracts them to him...who knows?
We drove away from Omarau to find somewhere out of town to park up for the night. This proved tricky. Everywhere else we have been there have been lookouts and rest stops about every 10kms. Not so here. After driving for nigh on 50kms, in the dark, we were starting to be concerned. This was not helped by glimpsing a possum trying to leap in front of the car (it failed, luckily and stayed on the other lane), by a random collie dog frolicking around in the dark and by a giant unrecognisable creature slinking along the side of the road. Suitably freaked, we drew up at a lookout over a dam and went to sleep, nervously awaiting attack by previously mentioned unrecognisable creature.
In the morning, it was gloriously cloudfree sky and brillaint sunshine. There was no evidence of fenzied scratching or clawmarks on the car, so we ventured forth again. This time, our goal was a lookout over a lake to Mt Cook. Upon reaching it, we sat on the roof for elevenses and marvelled at the expanse of pastel blue water stretching in front of us to the foot of the mountains covered in snow. It was stunning.
Continuing on, we reached Lake Tekapo which was, if possible, even more beautiful. We were both amazed at the fact that all the land around the edge of one side of the lake is for sale - the view is spectacular. We sat on the rocky beach and soaked up the sunshine for a while, skimming stones across the water.
Some time later, we arrived in Christchurch, in the evening. We have bought ourselves a patch of holiday park to call our own for the next two nights, so we get showers, a pool and loads of associated benefits, wahey! It also allows us to catch a bus into the centre tomorrow and properly look around the city, which we are both keen to do as it is almost impossible to do when you have a car in tow!
Happy Halloween everybody!
Our plan was to visit the Royal Albatross colony on the headland and after climbing high into the hills, buffeted by wind, we made it to the colony centre. However, turns out that this time of year is prime egg laying time and as such no-one is allowed to even breathe near the albatross in case they spook and fly off, never to attempt reproducing again. Nevertheless, there were some taxidermed versions to look at as well as an instructive exhibition about the wildlife and a video that made me instantly guilty about having started to eat fish. In other words...Save the Albatross! Use simple fishing methods to avoid catching giant, 3m wingspan birds of the sea on your hooks! Albatross friendly fish!
We left the hills and meandered into Dunedin itself. We were not sure if we would like this city, after initially visiting it on the way into the Otago Peninsula in search of fuel, at 6.30pm, with the emergency light bleeping and the car making funny straining noises on hills. Fuel is aparently a rare commodity in Dunedin when you are actively searching for it, but we got some in the end, after coming across a disused fuel station, one in the process of being built and one that was just closed early!
Turns out however, that Dunedin is very pleasant. We wandered the streets and had a browse in the shops. I discovered a pajama store that is now my absolute favourite shop, called peteralexander. We also discovered a Cadbury's chocolate factory and decided to go on the tour.
This was an awesome decision. First up, we went through the groovy exhibition on the discovery of chocolate by the Aztecs (I love learning about Aztecs) and how Cadbury's came into being. While Alex waited for the tour to begin, scorning my need to read every board on display, I carried on regardless. This, it turned out, was the way to go!
Our guide 'Cocoa Joe' turned up in bright purple dungarees and fetching head cover. We had to don head covers as well and in a moment of pure comedic genius, Alex was made to wear a 'snou' or a beard cover! Hilarious, he looked like Santa Claus. Off we went into the factory, the air positively heavy with chocolate scents. We were each given a little plastic bag with a chocolate bar in it - to hold goodies as we went. This was excellent, we had not realised we got free stuff into the bargain.
In some weird cliche, everyone working at the chocolate factory was happy. Everyone! They all beamed at us as we passed, gave out free chocolate to fill our bags and had names like Bernie. It was awesome. Even better, 'Cocoa Joe' had a policy of ask a question, and give the reward correct answers with free chocolate. The moment I realised this, the stuff I'd been reading in the exhibition came into itself! I have many, many free chocolate bars now. All is good in the world. They are all weird crazy ones that have never been heard of in the UK - like 'pinky', 'moro', 'snowball' and 'funkynana'! They all involve much marshmallow though, so Alex is pretty much reaping the bounty of my question answering skills.
After Cadburys we went into Dunedin and had a coffee before going back to the car to start the drive onwards to Christchurch.
We arrived in Moeraki around about 5pm. Now, the boulders along the beach here are what initially decided New Zealand for me - they are the photograph on the cover of my travel guide. As such, I was eager to see them. They are a bit of a geological oddity, in that they are rounded boulders, quite large, randomly strewn about the otherwise unremarkable beach of Moeraki. Some are split open, like eggs, and reveal a honeycomb centre which is even caramel coloured for realism! Alex and I had a good bit of fun playing about on these, Alex jumping easily from one to the other while I flopped and floundered about through them.
Onto Christchurch. On the way, we passed Omarau, which promised a Blue/Fairy penguin colony. We decided to stop and have a looksie. Imagine our amusement when it turned out to be a full-on centre and conservation movement for penguins which we had seen earlier in a leaflet and wanted to go to, but clean forgotton about since. Not only this, but we managed to turn up at dusk, at the exact time that they recommend you arriving so you can get seats before the penguins come inland.
Here, we sat in a small grandstand overlooking the beach, the boulderstrewn cliff and the swathe of grass covered in hummocks and man-man penguin next boxes. As darkness fells and the yellow lights came on (penguins cannot see yellow) we spied a tiny little blue penguin making its way up the rocky ramp. We named it 'Jonesy' as such named individuals are apparently always on point position in war games and watched it scamper up in a very sneaky, ninj-like manner. Upon finally reaching the grass, it made an all out break for it, scurrying across the grass towards its nestbox at full throttle. I know this description is typical of penguins, but it is so true - he looked like he was wearing a full dinner jacket and smart shirt. Admittedly, in oh-so-fashionable indigo blue and satin sheeny white, but still. What makes it funny is that he was a mere 10 inches tall. As it got darker, more and more penguins arrived. They spend the day fishing alone, then form up into groups or 'rafts' about a kilometre out to sea. They then cruise in together, catch a wave and ride it onto the beach, standing up as it recedes and waddling, hopping and scrambling up the rocks. They make odd honking-shrieking-purring noises to each other and move across the open area before the grass in groups of 20 or 30, leaving behind a rear guard each time who waddle back to the waiting penguins in the rocks to, assumably, inform them it is okay to cross now! We saw fuzzy chicks and mates running out of their nests to welcome back there partners from the sea. It was really cool. It was also very, very cold. After freezing for an hour or so, we decided to leave. As we stood, one of the penguins noticed and appeared to make eye contact with ALex, even though they are not supposed to be able to see in the dark. It made straight for him in an unwavering line, practically leaping over the pebbles. After stopping and staring for a while, it moved on and ALex and I continued down the path. Here, there were three penguins clustered together. They were wandering about so we stopped to watch and they started towards us. Alex bent down and the penguins went crazy for him again! Running straight through the wire fence, one approached him and gently tapped his shoe! Whether this was because he was wearing blue and white converse or because, as I think, he has a weird affinity with birds and was quite possibly a bird in a past life and thus attracts them to him...who knows?
We drove away from Omarau to find somewhere out of town to park up for the night. This proved tricky. Everywhere else we have been there have been lookouts and rest stops about every 10kms. Not so here. After driving for nigh on 50kms, in the dark, we were starting to be concerned. This was not helped by glimpsing a possum trying to leap in front of the car (it failed, luckily and stayed on the other lane), by a random collie dog frolicking around in the dark and by a giant unrecognisable creature slinking along the side of the road. Suitably freaked, we drew up at a lookout over a dam and went to sleep, nervously awaiting attack by previously mentioned unrecognisable creature.
In the morning, it was gloriously cloudfree sky and brillaint sunshine. There was no evidence of fenzied scratching or clawmarks on the car, so we ventured forth again. This time, our goal was a lookout over a lake to Mt Cook. Upon reaching it, we sat on the roof for elevenses and marvelled at the expanse of pastel blue water stretching in front of us to the foot of the mountains covered in snow. It was stunning.
Continuing on, we reached Lake Tekapo which was, if possible, even more beautiful. We were both amazed at the fact that all the land around the edge of one side of the lake is for sale - the view is spectacular. We sat on the rocky beach and soaked up the sunshine for a while, skimming stones across the water.
Some time later, we arrived in Christchurch, in the evening. We have bought ourselves a patch of holiday park to call our own for the next two nights, so we get showers, a pool and loads of associated benefits, wahey! It also allows us to catch a bus into the centre tomorrow and properly look around the city, which we are both keen to do as it is almost impossible to do when you have a car in tow!
Happy Halloween everybody!
Thursday, 29 October 2009
Luge
Imagine climbing into a fibreglass toboggan on wheels, checking your brakes are working, then zooming off down a steep polished concrete ramp at full speed. Oh, you are at the top of a mountain too, overlooking NZ's adventure capital, Queenstown.
Today dawned blue and gold so we headed for the gondala that carts people up the mountain looming over Queenstown and Lake Wakitipu. After boarding, we soared upwards through the pine trees in our little plastic cube, with epic view across the Remarkables and the lake. Once up top, we were fitted out with helmets (brilliantly colour-coordinated with our hoodies) and given instructions on stopping. Always handy, that.
There were two routes, scenic and advanced. We had to do a scenic one first to prove competence and whizzed down it with no permanent injury. I managed to rather spectacularly spin off track on a corner and career into the fence but I'm used to bruises by now.
We had bought five goes, so after the scenic slope we had a practice run of the advanced before our competition began. We had three races. Only one could win. Who would it be?
Both outrageously confident, we set off from the top. I raced ahead, taking the corners at breakneck speed. Alex drew up alongside and for one brief instant managed to ovetake me...but then I got back in the lead at the next corner and was laughing all the way to the finish line!
Second go down, luge car rattling along as if it was going to shake itself apart, we kept side by side, each edging forward a little then slowing on the corners. Finally, on a straight about halfway down, Alex took over my position and try as I might, I could not get up enough speed to overtake him again.
Last race, the tiebreaker. The guy supervising our cart usage was amused by our attempts to best each other. We set off from the top, down the slope and into the first corner. Steeply turning, I took the inside while Alex whizzed around the outside. The first ramp was approaching and the speed we could get from that would determine the winner...Argh! I wheelied my cart around the ramps following corner and smelt burning rubber as Alex flew into the lead yet again! I couldn't catch up and he waved at the cameras as he crossed the finish line ahead of me.
After our exhilarating racing moment, we sat and admired the view for a while. We were looking straight down over an evergreen forest, across the massive lake of Queenstown which was a steely blue colour and at the higher peaks of the snowy Remarkables. The radio forecast snow last night and we could see the fresh dusting on the lower slopes. Bizarre, as it was warm and sunny on our mountain.
We took the gondala back down in order to get back to our car before its parking ran out and then moved on to grab a good lunch at the food court. Curry goodness was had by all and we are now very full of food.
Eeep! Another siren just went off right outside!
All good, its fine. No one started running for their lives. All the odd noises and emergencies that no one cares about are things that definately should be mentioned to strangers so as not to panic them unnecessarily!
We are heading on to Dunedin this afternoon. It is right across the country on the opposite coast -this is as far down as we go! It can only get warmer from here, yay! We thought we'd update the blog in case we stop half way across and have zero signal due to elevated landmasses.
Hope all is well back home and everyone is doing good. Love to all xxx
Today dawned blue and gold so we headed for the gondala that carts people up the mountain looming over Queenstown and Lake Wakitipu. After boarding, we soared upwards through the pine trees in our little plastic cube, with epic view across the Remarkables and the lake. Once up top, we were fitted out with helmets (brilliantly colour-coordinated with our hoodies) and given instructions on stopping. Always handy, that.
There were two routes, scenic and advanced. We had to do a scenic one first to prove competence and whizzed down it with no permanent injury. I managed to rather spectacularly spin off track on a corner and career into the fence but I'm used to bruises by now.
We had bought five goes, so after the scenic slope we had a practice run of the advanced before our competition began. We had three races. Only one could win. Who would it be?
Both outrageously confident, we set off from the top. I raced ahead, taking the corners at breakneck speed. Alex drew up alongside and for one brief instant managed to ovetake me...but then I got back in the lead at the next corner and was laughing all the way to the finish line!
Second go down, luge car rattling along as if it was going to shake itself apart, we kept side by side, each edging forward a little then slowing on the corners. Finally, on a straight about halfway down, Alex took over my position and try as I might, I could not get up enough speed to overtake him again.
Last race, the tiebreaker. The guy supervising our cart usage was amused by our attempts to best each other. We set off from the top, down the slope and into the first corner. Steeply turning, I took the inside while Alex whizzed around the outside. The first ramp was approaching and the speed we could get from that would determine the winner...Argh! I wheelied my cart around the ramps following corner and smelt burning rubber as Alex flew into the lead yet again! I couldn't catch up and he waved at the cameras as he crossed the finish line ahead of me.
After our exhilarating racing moment, we sat and admired the view for a while. We were looking straight down over an evergreen forest, across the massive lake of Queenstown which was a steely blue colour and at the higher peaks of the snowy Remarkables. The radio forecast snow last night and we could see the fresh dusting on the lower slopes. Bizarre, as it was warm and sunny on our mountain.
We took the gondala back down in order to get back to our car before its parking ran out and then moved on to grab a good lunch at the food court. Curry goodness was had by all and we are now very full of food.
Eeep! Another siren just went off right outside!
All good, its fine. No one started running for their lives. All the odd noises and emergencies that no one cares about are things that definately should be mentioned to strangers so as not to panic them unnecessarily!
We are heading on to Dunedin this afternoon. It is right across the country on the opposite coast -this is as far down as we go! It can only get warmer from here, yay! We thought we'd update the blog in case we stop half way across and have zero signal due to elevated landmasses.
Hope all is well back home and everyone is doing good. Love to all xxx
Tuesday, 27 October 2009
Driving
With much sadness, we left Wanaka to continue on around the South Island. Monday was a Public Holiday (Labour Day) so the roads were busy but it was nice to see so many natives. We drove straight onto Queenstown and while driving, the rain started. Having had three beautiful sunny days, Alex tempted trouble by putting our raincoats in the boot, instead of on constant standby on the car seats as they have been since we left in Newt. Of course, the perpetual downpour we then endured yesterday shall be attributed to Alex. Grr.
Anyways, we arrived in Queenstown which appeared through the rain to be as lovely as Wanaka, if a bit more bustling and people-filled. Once we had located parking spots, we took a stroll along the waterfront and then gave up on trying to be scenically interested due to freezing conditions and aforementioned downpour. We ventured instead into the Mall in a hunter-gather mission of sustenance. Alex had some nasty McDonalds meal for comparisons sake between NZ and the UK. The verdict was that the burger actually resembled the picture, and felt cleaner to eat. No comment. I, on the other hand, opted for a curry from the food court which was very yummy. After eating, we wandered around the shops looking at the range of clothes available and prices, as we will both probably need to purchase some at some point! Alex got a brilliant green hoodie with NZ slang on it for the summer.
After moshing about Queenstown for a few hours in the rain, we realised that all the things we wanted to do there pretty much demanded good weather. In a snap descision, we decided to move on and attempt the mega drive to Milford Sound and hope for good weather the day after (today) in which to see it. Milford Sound is not that far away from Queenstown, geographically. However, there happens to be a rather large mountain range running between the two, making the drive 291km more than would be necessary if you had the bonus of wings.
With the aid of an energy drink (luminous green and fruity) we miraculously managed the entire drive and outran the rain! We camped overnight in a DOC site in the woods and then this morning drove the last little bit to the Sound. The environments we are driving through are crazy. We have passed well over a million sheep and their progeny. Most of the drive was in a basin-like valley surrounded by huge mountains called The Remarkables, all snow and jutting peaks. We passed a few kilometres of gentle rolling hills covered in golden-red grass tussocks (imaginatively named 'Red Grass Tussock Conservation Area') and also scrubland and lakes. Once in Fiordland, we marvelled at the views and bought passage on one of the Milford Sound cruises.
This was well worth it. One of the best boat trips I have ever taken, we were steered around the tranquil waters of the inner Sound to the edge of the Tasman as it smashed against the rocks. We saw the vertiginous peaks of the mountains surrounding the blue-green waters. Waterfalls cascading down from hundreds of metres up in the air and misting down across the water. Fur seals basking on the rocks in the sunshine and tiny little crested Fiordland penguins hopping over the rocks and swooping through the water. There were many pictures taken and when we have a better internet connection we'll get right on uploading some photos.
Once we had disembarked, we started the drive back to Queenstown. We are now parked up for the night about 30km outside of Queenstown and having lucked out on the weather today for our trip, we're hoping for similar again tomorrow for our second go at Queenstown.
Anyways, we arrived in Queenstown which appeared through the rain to be as lovely as Wanaka, if a bit more bustling and people-filled. Once we had located parking spots, we took a stroll along the waterfront and then gave up on trying to be scenically interested due to freezing conditions and aforementioned downpour. We ventured instead into the Mall in a hunter-gather mission of sustenance. Alex had some nasty McDonalds meal for comparisons sake between NZ and the UK. The verdict was that the burger actually resembled the picture, and felt cleaner to eat. No comment. I, on the other hand, opted for a curry from the food court which was very yummy. After eating, we wandered around the shops looking at the range of clothes available and prices, as we will both probably need to purchase some at some point! Alex got a brilliant green hoodie with NZ slang on it for the summer.
After moshing about Queenstown for a few hours in the rain, we realised that all the things we wanted to do there pretty much demanded good weather. In a snap descision, we decided to move on and attempt the mega drive to Milford Sound and hope for good weather the day after (today) in which to see it. Milford Sound is not that far away from Queenstown, geographically. However, there happens to be a rather large mountain range running between the two, making the drive 291km more than would be necessary if you had the bonus of wings.
With the aid of an energy drink (luminous green and fruity) we miraculously managed the entire drive and outran the rain! We camped overnight in a DOC site in the woods and then this morning drove the last little bit to the Sound. The environments we are driving through are crazy. We have passed well over a million sheep and their progeny. Most of the drive was in a basin-like valley surrounded by huge mountains called The Remarkables, all snow and jutting peaks. We passed a few kilometres of gentle rolling hills covered in golden-red grass tussocks (imaginatively named 'Red Grass Tussock Conservation Area') and also scrubland and lakes. Once in Fiordland, we marvelled at the views and bought passage on one of the Milford Sound cruises.
This was well worth it. One of the best boat trips I have ever taken, we were steered around the tranquil waters of the inner Sound to the edge of the Tasman as it smashed against the rocks. We saw the vertiginous peaks of the mountains surrounding the blue-green waters. Waterfalls cascading down from hundreds of metres up in the air and misting down across the water. Fur seals basking on the rocks in the sunshine and tiny little crested Fiordland penguins hopping over the rocks and swooping through the water. There were many pictures taken and when we have a better internet connection we'll get right on uploading some photos.
Once we had disembarked, we started the drive back to Queenstown. We are now parked up for the night about 30km outside of Queenstown and having lucked out on the weather today for our trip, we're hoping for similar again tomorrow for our second go at Queenstown.
Sunday, 25 October 2009
Wanaka
We had tasty breakfast today, making full use of the kitchens at the campsite - scrambled eggs, beans, toast. Yum! Anyways, thus fortified for a while at least, we set off to 'Have-a-Shot' just outside of Wanaka, in order to test our aim and various projectile weapons. First up was archery. Now, I had a bit of an advantage here having practiced weekly for a couple of years at the local shooting range, but here we were equipped with bows, arrows and targets. It was excellent fun and reminded me how much I miss the sport. After a few quick tips Alex was shooting away like a pro and I managed to get my eye in and land some good target practice. I will not reveal end results (being a good sport and all) but surfice to say I may have ended up with just a few more points than Alex did...
Next up was the rifle range. Now, this scared me. I dislike guns. I dislike their use and their purpose. However, Alex had done this before and we had quite the competition going by now. After instruction on loading and aiming and all that jazz, we set to.
Bang! Quite a noise, yet much easier than bows to aim! I managed an entire target sheet with holes all gathered in the middle. Top points to me! Alex tried to get a bit fancy and aim without a rest, so lost what would have been his lead.
Finally, we took a turn at the driving range with the golf. Now, I do not see the point in golf, other than as a social sport. I can whack the ball, but that is pretty much it. I also did a few classic try and miss swings. Doh. Alex was hitting the balls all over the range, in the attempt to hit the TV at 100m and so win us $45. Alas, it didn't happen, although he did get to a very impressive 160m.
Once we had finished indulging the need to shoot things, we headed off to Puzzling World, an oddity park full of illusions and mindtricks, as well as a massive maze. We managed to complete the maze (eventually) which was on two levels and involved finding four towers in a particular order. We managed the towers reasonably well, the hard part was then trying to get out again! When we finally emerged, we had trod at least 3-5km and were exhausted. We recharged with a slab of chocolate cake and some brilliant puzzles in the cafe, then headed into the illusion area. First up was a room of holographic pictures that leapt out at you as you passed. Then, the worlds only 'Room of Following Faces', where large casts of famous people's face sline the walls and their concave nature causes them to follow you intently about the room - not just their eyes, but their entire head!
After pictures with Mandela and Van Gogh respectively,we headed on into the Balance Room. Oh, was this odd! The whole room is on a tilt, so that you walk upright, but appear to be slanting over...it was so hard! We kept falling down the room and banging into the walls!
It really messes with your head. There were optical illusions on the wall as well, to further confuddle your poor brain, so we had anti-grav chairs and water flwoing the wrong way to contend with as well.
Wrenching our way out of that room, we went to the Ames Room, which is how the hobbits were created in Lord of the Rings - it appears to be a normal room, but when filmed a person on one side appears to be too large to fit inside while the other person on the opposite side is so tiny they cannot reach the ceiling!
We also explored (this is going to sound odd) the toilets - where an illusionist motif painter has a replica Roman bathroom just outside of the real toilets.
Lastly, we tried some silly poses around the meandering buildings of Puzzling World, just for fun.
Once we had returned to our campsite, we had a full-on sort of the car. We cleaned it out and got it spick and span. I was also made to streamline my lugguge, which was a traumatic experience. I am now in mourning for the things which I will have to send home in order to lighten my load. We made an epic amount of dinner and then got sociable - the dining room was full of people who all wanted to chat, so we have been in here for about 3 hours swapping stories and travel routes with various people, from Scotland, LA and Germany! It all started when our 'next-door neightbor' in the campsite asked me a question...even though he seems incapable of hearing my answers! They have all gone now though and we are going to bed after I have finished the blog - Alex is currently dancing around the kitchen/dining room area with the fish slice, attempting to defend himself from the overlarge moths flying around the ceiling. There is an all out defensive going on here!
Updated Flickr with lots of shiny new photographs, also, hopefully sorted the comments issue (again).
Next up was the rifle range. Now, this scared me. I dislike guns. I dislike their use and their purpose. However, Alex had done this before and we had quite the competition going by now. After instruction on loading and aiming and all that jazz, we set to.
Bang! Quite a noise, yet much easier than bows to aim! I managed an entire target sheet with holes all gathered in the middle. Top points to me! Alex tried to get a bit fancy and aim without a rest, so lost what would have been his lead.
Finally, we took a turn at the driving range with the golf. Now, I do not see the point in golf, other than as a social sport. I can whack the ball, but that is pretty much it. I also did a few classic try and miss swings. Doh. Alex was hitting the balls all over the range, in the attempt to hit the TV at 100m and so win us $45. Alas, it didn't happen, although he did get to a very impressive 160m.
Once we had finished indulging the need to shoot things, we headed off to Puzzling World, an oddity park full of illusions and mindtricks, as well as a massive maze. We managed to complete the maze (eventually) which was on two levels and involved finding four towers in a particular order. We managed the towers reasonably well, the hard part was then trying to get out again! When we finally emerged, we had trod at least 3-5km and were exhausted. We recharged with a slab of chocolate cake and some brilliant puzzles in the cafe, then headed into the illusion area. First up was a room of holographic pictures that leapt out at you as you passed. Then, the worlds only 'Room of Following Faces', where large casts of famous people's face sline the walls and their concave nature causes them to follow you intently about the room - not just their eyes, but their entire head!
After pictures with Mandela and Van Gogh respectively,we headed on into the Balance Room. Oh, was this odd! The whole room is on a tilt, so that you walk upright, but appear to be slanting over...it was so hard! We kept falling down the room and banging into the walls!
It really messes with your head. There were optical illusions on the wall as well, to further confuddle your poor brain, so we had anti-grav chairs and water flwoing the wrong way to contend with as well.
Wrenching our way out of that room, we went to the Ames Room, which is how the hobbits were created in Lord of the Rings - it appears to be a normal room, but when filmed a person on one side appears to be too large to fit inside while the other person on the opposite side is so tiny they cannot reach the ceiling!
We also explored (this is going to sound odd) the toilets - where an illusionist motif painter has a replica Roman bathroom just outside of the real toilets.
Lastly, we tried some silly poses around the meandering buildings of Puzzling World, just for fun.
Once we had returned to our campsite, we had a full-on sort of the car. We cleaned it out and got it spick and span. I was also made to streamline my lugguge, which was a traumatic experience. I am now in mourning for the things which I will have to send home in order to lighten my load. We made an epic amount of dinner and then got sociable - the dining room was full of people who all wanted to chat, so we have been in here for about 3 hours swapping stories and travel routes with various people, from Scotland, LA and Germany! It all started when our 'next-door neightbor' in the campsite asked me a question...even though he seems incapable of hearing my answers! They have all gone now though and we are going to bed after I have finished the blog - Alex is currently dancing around the kitchen/dining room area with the fish slice, attempting to defend himself from the overlarge moths flying around the ceiling. There is an all out defensive going on here!
Updated Flickr with lots of shiny new photographs, also, hopefully sorted the comments issue (again).
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